Chris Bickford

Last August the float warehouse of the Krewe de Vieux–a satirical Mardi Gras society who lays sole claim to having permit to parade through the night streets of the French Quarter during the Carnival season–caught fire, causing irreparable damage to a number of their floats. In true New Orleanian fashion, the Krewe turned loss into creativity by declaring “All Fired Up!” as the theme for their 2010 parade. The theme has taken on greater meaning in the past week, as the New Orleans Saints begin their own march towards the Super Bowl for the first time in history. Indeed, alongside the flame-haired revelers in red tights marched the corpses of Peyton Manning and other targets of the Saints’ rampage as they journey towards the bright lights of Miami. And, just as ubiquitous as the brass bands blowing out “When the Saints go Marching in” were the chants from the crowd all along the parade route of “Who dat?! Who dat?! Who dat say dey gonna beat dem Saints?!

We had arrived in New Orleans the night before under a full moon, and spent Saturday getting our bearings and scoping out the best spot for the perfect shot of the parade. In the end, in true New Orleanian spirit, all our planning was cast to the winds, as we were swept along in the energy of the parade. Having begun at the corner of St Peter and Royal in the French Quarter, against the backdrop of a beautiful Quarter Maison and what we hoped was going to be a shiny moon, we found ourselves in short order in the Marigny, the home turf of the Krewe de Vieux, where the Krewe decamped for their post-parade party and all the rest of New Orleans’ bohemians, creatives, and street urchins danced the night away to dj music oustide the taco truck.

And that “perfect shot” we had spent the day scoping out? Well, right now, it’s lying somewhere in the middle of a trash-heap, or more optimistically in the hands of some eagle-eyed parade watcher, who just hasn’t yet figured out how to return to me the 16 gb Compact Flash card they found lying on the streets amid the empty beer cups, beads, matchbooks, puddles of vomit, and cigarette butts, somewhere along the parade route. I suppose it’s my own sacrifice to the gods of Carnival, my own throw to the fire of abandonment that warms revelers in the chilly months of the Carnival season. Unfortunately, the card also contained some video documentation of our epic haul from the OBX to NOLA, plus some truly sick photos of our arrival at our digs in the Tremé, with the full moon sneaking out from the clouds and throwing streaks of god-light down upon my rear-window-shattered Cherokee stallion, as I stood on the back bumper, raising my arm to the sky…see, you’d have to actually see the photo to know what the f–k I’m talking about, and only then would you say, dude, that is SICK!…but my assistant Fede and I are determined to re-create the photo next full moon, along with staging a Storyville-inspired bordello shoot around the grounds of the 150-year-old house we are renting.

As for the rest of the night, here are some highlights:

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Tomorrow begins the big road trip down to New Orleans to cover the Carnival and Mardi Gras celebrations, leg #2 of The Carnival Project, which began over the last couple of years with my coverage of Carnival in Venice.  It’s a 17-hour drive, but my co-pilot and assistant Federica Valabrega will be sharing driving duties with me and we hope to make it down and be settled in to our apartment in the Tremé in time to cover the Saturday night parade of the Krewe de Vieux, the only night-time parade through the French Quarter during the Carnival season.   This year the King of the Krewe de Vieux will be the venerable Dr. John, one of the great living legends of New Orleans music.   I can’t wait to see the old man in his crazy king outfit and his long beard rolling through the Quarter, laying down the benediction of funk and gumbo upon the revelers along the parade route.

Because of my last-minute trip out to California, whose post seems to have gotten partially deleted for some strange reason, we will be arriving a little late to the festivities.   But with the Saints having won a historic victory in the Superdome in sudden-death overtime last Sunday night, spirits in the Crescent City are high–the sad memory of the Superdome post-Katrina has been replaced by the elation of a resilient city whose spirited football team led their franchise to its first Super Bowl in its history–and with such auspicious beginnings this Carnival season proves to be epic and historic in many ways, weather permitting.

We plan to provide updates as often as possible over the next couple of weeks leading up to Mardi Gras, provided we don’t get so sucked into the spirit of the street symphony that we forget to blog and tweet and facebook…at the very least I’ll keep making my silly iPhone camera updates on Facebook, so if you want to see what’s going on, join me on Facebook…I’m the Chris Bickford in the “Virginia Beach/Norfolk” network…

I’ll save my ramblings on the interest and significance of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras in the pantheon of great Carnival traditions for a later time.   Right now I need to pack up, gear up, and get a little  rest.  Stay tuned…

It has been a charmed journey from the start.

Unlike my last venture out into the world from my windy Atlantic outpost—which began with a very strange Halloween and a lost iPhone, and was fraught with lost wallets, lost keys, lost ATM cards, brief tense moments among good friends, and a general feeling that the trickster was afoot in our ventures–

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After the Storm now has its very own web site…Hell yeah, fa-shizzle!! Check it out: www.after-the-storm.net

We’ll be working the kinks out over then next couple of weeks, but there’s lots of good content to check out, and it’s all in one place. Props to Christian and Joe at gcp.com for making it happen. Please contact me with any comments or issues you may experience with the site. It will have its own blog as well, so I don’t have to continue to mar the beauty of the sacred Travelogue with shameless self-promotion. At least not in so blatant a fashion. More blogs…hell yeah, bring it on! Gotta get that feeding tube set up.

Enjoy!

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Photo by Jesse Fernandez

New Year’s Resolutions for 2010, plan A:

1) Blog more

2) Facebook more

3) Start Tweeting

4) Hang out more on other people’s blogs

5) Add at least 10,000 app’s to my iPhone before year’s end

6) Get my iPhone surgically implanted into my palm

5) Get a feeding tube hooked up to my computer

10) Gain 5o pounds

11) Avoid actual human contact as much as possible (on account of swine flu and all)

————–

New Year’s Resolution 2010, Plan B:

GET A F–KING LIFE!!!

————–

I mean really…the interweb is great and all, and I love technology as much as the next guy…but things are starting to get a little ridiculous.   The gurus of the week are now telling us that Twitter and Facebook are not just cool and fun, but that we must use them–nay, that our very lives and livelihoods depend on us getting dialed in on the whole Facebook/Twitter/viral constantly-updating content-carnivorous bandwagon of infinite bandwith and instant virtual gratification…That in order for our passions and relationships and businesses to thrive, we must be providing hourly updates to our ten thousand closest friends on our every move…and alert EVERYONE the instant we see something funny or cute or interesting or patriotic or heartwarming or somehow relevant to NOW on the internet…and pass on all the tweets we get from people we are “following” so they will “follow” us…Well if we’re following them and they’re following us, then where the hell are we actually going?

I’m just sayin’…

Look, it’s all good, and I’m not saying I’m opposed to it.  Hell, here I am on my blog typing away after all.  And yes, I am on Facebook and sometimes use it to shamelessly promote myself.  But on the other hand, I worry about us. I worry about all that good organic human energy going to waste as we stare at LCD screens and move our fingers in precise mechanical motions.  How far we have come from ages past when we could read the ground beneath our feet like a book, when we would entertain ourselves and our friends and family by singing and dancing and telling stories, when we had time to look up into the sky in wonder, time to pay attention to our own thoughts, make our own music, listen to the wind, hear the wisdom of the sages….

Now obviously some of that stuff got to be a little old or we wouldn’t have moved away from it.   But as the techno-train speeds faster and faster to some unknown destination of pure virtual nirvana, are our bodies and souls beginning to atrophy in inverse proportion?   Yes, we have learned how to maintain our bodies with diet, exercise, and medical science, but to what end?   So we can keep holding on to the wii controller for ten more years?  How horribly unfulfilling.

To be honest, my real motivation for this rant is that I’m sick of trying to keep up with it all.  Those who are good at keeping your blogs up to date and facebooking and tweeting on a regular basis, I take my hat off to you.   And I do solemly swear to try to at least blog a bit more regularly in the coming year…Already the guilt I am feeling about all the great blog posts I didn’t make this year is unbearable….”The Ole Swimmin’ Hole”–an ode to the fresh-water respites of  the Appalachian summer (which the NYTimes put on hold because it was incomplete, and then summer ended)…”The Holy City”–a small piece on Charleston, SC, where I went on assignment for the New York Times this past August, and fell in love with the architecture, the swampy air, the smell of horse piss and the echoes of history and aristocracy….”The Island of Flowers”–a little travel piece on the island of Flores in the Azores….”Old Boys”–a short pictorial essay of a weekend reunion with my old prep school friends at the Episcopal-Woodberry game (the longest continuous high-school rivalry in America)…”Home for the Holidays”…photos from my family’s first Outer Banks Thanksgiving and Christmas, which came about mainly because our old house in Norfolk was ruined in a flood…we had such a great time..

But that’s all behind us now.  Maybe I’ll throw up some of those posts way after the fact, but to be honest, my plate is just way too full to think about it.   This year however I pledge to commit more to this blog, and to my web presence in general, even if I have to drag myself back to the computer kicking and screaming after a long day of shooting, editing, answering emails, mailing out prints and books, meeting with clients, working on new book designs and promotional materials, and all the other things that keep money in the bank and keep me feeling like I’m moving my career in the right direction….

Okay, so…today I am heading out to Los Angeles to meet with curators, publishers, photo editors, etc.  I barely have room for my camera with all my portfolio books and super-large prints (and my wetsuit), but I resolve to take some pics of SoCal, as my journey will take me from San Diego (where my brother lives) to Ventura (where Patagonia is headquartered)…My old friend Mario Gonzalez, who moved out there a few years back for better surf, has promised to round me up a decent board, so I’ll get to do a little surfing, which will be welcome, since it’s been hovering around freezing here for weeks and I just don’t to the icicle surfing thing…

Shortly after my return, I’ll be heading down to New Orleans to shoot the Carnival/Mardi Gras season, and then ride out the rest of the season working on photo projects and following second-line parades.   Rough life, I know.   But my bank account is hovering near zero, so it will be an act of supreme magic to pull it all off.   All you prospective brides out there, take pity on me and my situation and book me for your wedding!   I’ll give you a good deal, I promise:)

Okay, that’s it for this post.   Here’s wishing you all a prosperous and fulfilling New Year, and for god’s sake, put that device back in your pocket and do something REAL!!!   If only for an hour or two…

:)

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